The Legacy of Cole of California: Pioneering Swimwear and the Artistry of Margit Felligi

Cole of California, born Vernon, United States of America in 1917, stands as an emblem of American innovation within the realm of casual fashion—specifically, swimwear. Established in 1917 by F.L. and Joseph Drane as West Coast Knitting Mills, the brand’s origins lie in a humble endeavor: crafting men's long knitted underwear and socks. This initial focus on textile craftsmanship would prove to be remarkably prescient, foreshadowing a transformative shift in design sensibilities that would define the company’s future trajectory.

• Early Years & Innovation (1917-1925): The Dranes recognized the burgeoning demand for comfortable fabrics and established West Coast Knitting Mills with a singular vision—to produce high-quality knitted garments using advanced techniques. Their commitment to meticulous craftsmanship quickly garnered recognition within the textile industry.
• Morris Cohn’s Influence & Expansion (1925-1936): Morris Cohn joined the Dranes' enterprise, injecting capital and expertise into the burgeoning business. Crucially, his son Fred Cole brought a theatrical background—a career as a silent movie actor—to the table, adding an unexpected dimension to the company’s operational ethos.
• The Birth of Hollywood Swimwear (1925): Recognizing the allure of glamour and sophistication, Cole championed the creation of women's swimwear. The introduction of the ‘Hollywood swimsuit,’ featuring a low back and neckline alongside a short skirt in 1925, instantly captivated audiences and cemented Cole’s reputation as a visionary designer.
• Margit Felligi: Shaping Aesthetic Direction (1936-Present): In 1936, Cole enlisted Margit Felligi as head of design—a decision that would irrevocably alter the course of Cole of California's artistic heritage. Felligi’s profound understanding of textile artistry and her unwavering dedication to exploring new forms of expression resulted in groundbreaking designs like the ‘Swoon suit’ and ‘Scandal suit,’ establishing Cole of California as a leader in shaping the aesthetic landscape of the era.

Cowichan Knitting: Tradition Meets Innovation

The influence of Cowichan knitting extends far beyond its distinctive geometric patterns. This traditional weaving technique, practiced by the Cowichan people of southeastern Vancouver Island, British Columbia, embodies a rich cultural heritage—one that Cole of California skillfully incorporated into its swimwear designs. The practice dates back centuries and is characterized by tightly woven wool blankets adorned with intricate motifs reflecting Indigenous symbolism and storytelling.

• Origins & Historical Context: Cowichan knitting’s roots trace back to pre-European contact, representing a profound connection to the land and ancestral traditions.
• Mary Maxim's Collaboration: Recognizing the beauty and artistry of Cowichan weaving, Mary Maxim partnered with Cowichan artisans to produce blankets featuring stylized representations of Indigenous designs. This collaboration elevated Cowichan knitting into a globally recognized craft.
• Contemporary Relevance: Today’s Cole of California continues to honor this legacy by utilizing techniques inspired by Cowichan weaving—specifically, the incorporation of textured fabrics and bold geometric patterns—demonstrating an enduring appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship.

The Hollywood Swimsuit Style & Felligi's Visionary Designs

Cole of California’s contribution to fashion history rests primarily on its pioneering role in establishing the ‘Hollywood swimsuit style.’ Launched in 1925, this design—characterized by a low back and neckline combined with a short skirt—captured the spirit of the Jazz Age and epitomized glamour and freedom. Margit Felligi's designs were instrumental in propelling this aesthetic forward. Her meticulous attention to detail and her willingness to experiment with innovative fabrics ensured that Cole’s swimwear remained at the forefront of fashion trends for decades.

Cole of California Today: A Continuing Legacy

From its humble beginnings as West Coast Knitting Mills, Cole of California has evolved into a globally recognized swimwear brand—a testament to visionary leadership and unwavering commitment to artistic excellence. The brand’s enduring success stems from its ability to blend tradition with innovation—drawing inspiration from techniques like Cowichan knitting while embracing contemporary design sensibilities. Cole of California continues to uphold the values established by Felligi and Joseph Drane, ensuring that the legacy of American swimwear artistry persists for generations to come.